Mon 8 July - H2O electrician, move to SJDL, overheating, VNF, swans, shops, frogs

In mid-morning, the H2O electrician (GaĆ©tan) arrived, as promised. We explained the sequence of events from the dead fridges to the low charge in the batteries, and then he got down to testing lots of things to determine if the problem was with the batteries or the Mastervolt Inverter/Charger. After about an hour, he decided it was probably a problem with the Mastervolt, but he couldn't be sure what the exact problem was because Mastervolt don't work on Mondays (it is France!) and so couldn't answer some technical questions he had for them. When he had finished, he advised us that it would be a good idea if we were able to move Kanumbra down to SJDL, so that they could do more tests, without running backwards and forwards between SJDL and Auxonne.  Also, if new batteries were needed, they had more people who could help at SJDL than at Auxonne.

While we were preparing to leave port to go to SJDL, I got a call from Dave Rothery asking how we were going, and where did we expect to cruise. I explained that we hoped to go up the Doubs and then up the Grand Alsace Canal to Strasbourg before deciding on a way to come back down. He said that he had also intended to do this, but had now changed his mind because of reported low water levels (1.2m) at the top of the Doubs. Since the draft of his boat is 1.3m, that would be a real problem, although not too bad for us with a draft of 0.7m. However, he then said that the rumour going round last year about boats under 20m not needing a pilot on the Grand Alsace (instead of the previous 15m) were incorrect. All boats over 15m still needed a pilot (he had just checked with the harbourmaster at Strasbourg). Since this was one of the critical reasons why we decided to aim for Strasbourg, we may now reconsider our plans, especially in view of the low water levels west of Strasbourg.

Around noon we were ready to leave port, but had to wait a while because a few other boats were entering the port and mooring. We eventually left the port and headed south towards the canal leading to the first, and only, lock on this little trip. As we passed under the railway bridge, we heard a high pitched alarm. We weren't sure if it was on the barge or on shore, but on listening outside we realised it was on the boat. We looked and listened everywhere but could not work out where it was coming from. Until I looked at the temperature guage and it said 120 deg C!! At this point in time, I realised I had forgotten to tell Rita about another task for de-winterising; topping up the main engine radiator with coolant (water)! By this time we were between the railway bridge and the flood barrage gates, so I couldn't just turn off the motor and drift. But we were near a VNF emergency dock, that they use for unloading their dredging barges. So we figured we had an emergemcy so it was OK for us to stop there. So I manoeuvred over to the dock, trying to use the engine as little as possible. As soon as we had a rope on a bollard, I cut the engine. We then waited a while till the engine cooled a little, then I went down into the engine room and started adding water to the radiator.

But while I was downstairs filling the radiator with the first 3 litres of water, I heard a frantic Rita upstairs calling "Tony, Tony, come up here quick". I finished emptying the jug, and went upstairs to find a VNF boat pushing a dredger barge straight towards us! We knew we were in their space, but we couldn't really move, just yet. So Rita shouted in French that is was an emergency, and they very politely went alongside us, then one of them pulled us forward on a rope while I used the engine sparingly, and they nestled in behind us so that they could unload their cargo of tree trunks that had fallen in yesterday's thunderstorm.

It was a pretty snug fit, but was lubricated by a bottle of red that we gave them, which they happily took away for their lunch.

After emptying a total of 10 litres of water into the radiator tank, I started the engine and the temperature immediately dropped from 120 deg to 80 deg, the normal operating temperature. So we bid farewell to our new friends, who had already departed for lunch with an unexpected bottle of red. A classic example of the kind, helpful and friendly people you bump into in unexpected circumstances in rural France. I hope they enjoyed the encounter as much as we did.

We immediately entered the canal which led to the lock which feeds us back into the Saone. This is a human-scale lock, unlike most on the Rhone and Saone, operated by twister and tirette. We found it enjoyable to be back on the canals, rivers & locks.

We then entered the Saone, and enjoyed a very pleasant 2-hour journey to SJDL. It was nice seeing some of the scenery we had enyoyed at the end of last year, but in the reverse direction.

When we arrived in SJDL, we had to slowly navigate our way through the H2O marina until we found our mooring location on the hammerhead at the end of pontoon D. Interestingly, as we cruised from Auxonne to SJDL, the battery charge increased from 34% (very low) to 71% (almost acceptable). So it looks like the batteries will accept a charge from the alternator, but not from shore power. Interesting symptom, but not sure what it really means.

We then went and registered with the Capitainerie, who were expecting us, and then made an appointment in the Admin Office for the electrician to come visit us in the morning. As we were opening the doors of the barge on our return, we saw an armada of swans (two parents and five cygnets) heading our way.

They soon reached the side of the barge and the young ones started demanding some food. So we obliged, and made them happy.

In the afternoon we walked up to the local Casino supermarket to do some shopping. We then got the bicycles off-board and rode 5 minutes out to find the train station, since Rita decided that since the barge wasn't going anywhere thIs week, she might as well take the opportunity to go down to the 50th Annual Karate Kamp at Serignan Plage near Beziers. She will take the train to Dijon, then the TGV to Beziers in the morning. On the way home, we ducked into SJDL to find a bank where Rita could withdraw some cash for her trip. We couldn't find a Credit Agricole, but we did find a generic ATM a stone's throw away from our pontoon. Despite our initial impressions about SJDL as a port yesterday, one thing it has in spades is convenience. And as we were to discover later, the atmosphere around our mooring is very private and quite pleasant. We had a great dinner on board (Rita's smoked chicken salad was even better than the seafood salad at the SJDL cafe yesterday). After a couple of mouthfuls I found myself with deja vue memories of the Australian movie "The Castle" when I asked Rita "What do you call this, luv?".  "Chicken", she said. She just failed to capture my tearful laughing in this photo (one for you, Jane and Lisa).

As the sun started to set, and the frogs found their collective voices, we were to discover that SJDL can also put on a decent sunset showing, complete with new moon.