Fri 9 Aug - morning walk, cliffs, tagging, call ahead, Baume les Dames, trout

In the morning we went for a walk northwards along the opposite bank of the canal, up to the junction of the canal and river. In doing so, we got a nice shot of Kanumbra in front of the church spire.

The detail in the tiling of the spire was magnificent, with great colours of brown and gold.

Further north, we saw a classic French house, with lots of potted plants and even a 2CV out the front.

As we came back we saw a warning sign that had perhaps been on this tree for a few years. We wondered how many more years before the tree totally ate the sign.

We left port around 1000h, because we wanted to get to our next port at Baume les Dames before the forecast rain arrived. The scenery along the Doubs was getting even more impressive, with rugged cliff faces on either side of the river.

When we reached the town of Laissey, we entered a lock that seemed to be connected to an adjacent abandoned factory, with a overhead walkway running along the left side of the lock. As we were tieing up, we noticed that many other barges had left their name and date of visitation on the beams running under the walkway. So, we also tagged it to record Kanumbra's visit (but got the date wrong for our visit; we'll get it right on the return trip!).

We called ahead to the Capitainerie at Baume les Dames to confirm that there was space for a parallel mooring of a 17m barge. But there was no answer on the first number given in the Guide Fluviale, so we tried the second number and got through to the VNF office. The woman who answered said she was not responsible for port moorings, but when she had travelled through the port this morning, there was plenty of space for parallel moorings at the far end of the port. so we pressed ahead with confidence. When we arrived in Baume les Dames, we saw that she was right; most of the finger pontoon space was gone, but there was plenty of space in front of and beyond the Capitainerie Restaurant. We went beyond the restaurant to obtain more privacy, but it was still pretty close.

Since we were running short of a few commodities (like beer and bread), we jumped on our bikes and crossed the canal and river to go to the nearby SuperU supermarket. As we emerged from the SuperU, it had started to rain, so we rode home with our groceries in the rain.

As I was sitting down with an "end of day's cruising" beer on the rear deck, I heard someone ask if anyone was aboard, and so we met up with Eddie (the Orienteerer) from Melbourne, who was pedalling home on his bike. We talked for quite a while, and learned that he had lived in Besanćon for 20 years with his French wife, and was a keen orienteerer. He noted that orienteering was treated as a serious sport in France and Switzerland, whereas it was treated as something weird in Australia, and hence he liked living in France, where he earned a living by conducting English classes for professionals in technical companies. After a while, he realised that he was running late in getting home, where he had to take his wife out for dinner for her birthday!

Soon after he left, we had another visitor on a bike, in the form of a young guy from the Capitainerie who was collecting mooring fees. Luckily, he found us, because we hadn't been able to find the Capitainerie Office, which was up the far end of the port. We paid for two night's stay, since we intended exploring Baume les Dames tomorrow.

We later walked about 10 metres to have dinner at Le Capitainerie Restaurant, where we had two different types of trout dinner. Soon after we ordered, however, it started to rain and so we switched tables to one that was under a partially extended canvas awning. Initially, the waiter (who was having a bad day after dropping a tray of glasses) refused to extend any awnings further, but as more people arrived and faced the prospect of getting wet, the owner intervened and opened all the awnings. Everyone was glad she did, as the rain got heavier by the minute. The meal was quite good and by the time we had finished, the rain had stopped. So we went for a walk up the port, but by the time we reached the bridges over the canal and river, thunder and lightning was seen to be approaching, so we cut our walk short and returned to the barge for the night.